How we survived Hurricane Jimena

The first full blown hurricane of the year was heading our way. What should we do?

The 8am weather forecast on the cruisers VHF net on Friday 28^th August 2009 at La Paz, Mx jerked us out of our torpor. Phyllis and I looked at each other and decided to head for a hurricane hole rather than face a possible category 2 or 3 hurricane Jimena in Pa Paz. By noon we were heading out of the harbour. The boat had full water tanks, nearly full fuel and had enough food for months.

Our choice of Puerto Escondido where we planned to hole up was 115 miles north. Apolima motorsailed up in 2 ½ days, arriving Sunday afternoon. Puerto Escondido seems to be a first class hurricane hole with excellent protection from the seas and good protection from the wind in the westerly direction. The harbour is protected all around except for an entrance channel 65 feet wide leading in from the south and is 45 feet deep. It is only a mile across so there is not enough fetch to raise large swells. There are about 80 buoys in good condition.

When we heard the latest forecast on Monday we congratulated ourselves on our decision to act as Jimena was turning into a category 4-5 hurricane that could come near La Paz. Hurricane Marty had caused a lot of damage to boats, docks and infrastructure there in 2004. It has very little natural protection, shallow anchorages, large bodies of water allowing huge steep waves to build and only a medium bottom for anchoring. Plus it is subject to storms surges. We felt it was not the best location for us to face our first hurricane.

Monday and Tuesday was spent preparing the boat. The idea is to secure the boat to one spot by anchor, mooring or tying to shore, reduce windage and to close up all openings that will let in water. In our case we attached the boat to a Singlar mooring buoy which consists of a large concrete weight with a heavy chain held up by a metal buoy. These are only a few years old and are regularly inspected. I connected our heavy nylon line from our waterline bobstay fitting to the buoys pickup line. Most boats are satisfied with this pickup line but I wanted some backups so I got into the water and shackled 2 more lines directly to the main chain then led them over 2 specially made rollers at the end of the bowsprit then secured them to the anchor winch. This means that is one line broke or chafed through we would have 2 lines in reserve to prevent up from drifting ashore.

Reducing windage a lot of physical work. This involved taking down all sails and storing them below, deflating and storing dinghies, taking down canvas dodgers, biminies, etc, securing halyards so they won't slap the mast, removing wind generators, solar panels and flags.

With 70+knots of wind driving a deluge of rain means that water will come in through any crack or crevice. All hatches, opening ports and ventilators should be closed, Some may have to be taped up. All bilge pumps should be serviced so they will be fully functionable.

Tuesday after working hard on preparing the boat Phyllis and I went to the marina for lunch. The skies were sunny and warm with a few clouds about. The pizzas, beer and companionship was pleasant until a dark cloud approached causing us to run for the dinghy. The skies opened up with wind and rain that put 2 inches of water in the dinghy before we reached Apolima. One reason for the rush was our realization that we had left all the hatches and ports open. After closing all openings we started to sop up the water that had come in. The hurricane had not even arrived and the interior was wet. What was it going to be like once it arrived?

That squall was the beginning of the storm. Tuesday night the wind gusted over the hills to the east with lots of rain and spray. Because it blew from the east the hills caused the wind to hit us from any direction within the eastern quadrant which caught the boats side on every time the direction changed. It was hard to say what the sustained wind was because of the frequent gusts and changes of direction but some were announcing gusts of 60-65kts. Needless to say, either Phyllis or I was on watch throughout the night checking the mooring lines for chafe and watching other boats.

The next morning, Wednesday, the wind veered more southerly and with less gusting but an increase in velocity. At times we could not see boats next to us because of spray and rain in the air. When the gusts peaked the noise was horrendous like a jet plane attempting to take off. Normally ( it is said here in Puerto Escondidos) hurricanes pass through in about 12 hours but this one just kept on blowing past 12 hours to 36 hours of storm force winds.

During the day 2 boats, Waverly and Spirit, broke loose from their mooring and drifted into the mangroves hard aground. It was blowing so hard that any skiff or dinghy that tried to help would most likely be overturned with likelihood of personal injuries or worse so all we could do was watch them drift away. These boats were l2 of many that were left to take care of themselves as their owners were absent. With someone aboard to tend to lines and anchors the chances of a boat weathering a hurricane rise dramatically. Later in the afternoon Saltshaker, a ketch, also broke loose but the owner was aboard so he was able to anchor and save the boat. The unattended boat next to us, Neka, broke loose just before dawn Thursday and went aground by the east window. 2 hours later the Singlar ponga pulled it off and dragged it back to its mooring.

Thursday morning the storm died down in Puerto Escondido to southerly winds of 15-20kts accompanying some showers. The hurricane now had downgraded to a tropical storm over San Carlos with much flooding. When it was affecting us here it was a category 2 hurricane. It also hit Mulege and Santa Rosalia just north of here with much damage and flooding. There was destroyed docks, palapas, roads, a bridge washed out on highway 1 and electric power, telephone, cell phone, water service out. The only communication with the outside was HF radio and satellite for 5 days after. We had notified our friends and relatives by email that we were in a safe hurricane hole but were not able to send a message to say we made it through safely for 5 days.

In Puerto Escondido itself the 2 boats that washed up on the mangroves were pulled off and returned to their moorings without damage by volunteers from the boating community here and Singlar crew.

In summary Puerto Escondido seems to be a first class hurricane hole with excellent protection from the seas and good protection from the wind in the westerly direction. The harbour is 45 feet deep and only a mile across which is not enough fetch to raise large swells. There are about 80 buoys in good condition. Of course it is only good seamanship to dive and check any mooring you want to depend on. The staff at Singlar Marina who manage the moorings were very helpful.

Phyllis and I felt confident in our location and the moorings so that during the hurricane we were watchful and stressed but not in fear of our boat or lives. It was well worth it to travel 3 days to a good anchorage. Yes, as it turned out La Paz only had 35-40 kts of wind so we would have been safe there as well. Considering the size of the hurricane, its predicted path and the protection offered In La Paz we would make the same decision to head for Puerto Escondido again. We learned much firsthand knowledge with Hurricane Jimena that will help us to better survive the next one.

Surviving hurricanes is good for your health!

Comments anyone?

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